Build Report: Swollen Pickle (Modified Big Muff Pi)

Some years ago I developed interest in guitar pedal effects and stompboxes in general. Built a Woolly Mammoth that I learned a lot on the subject, then soon after a bunch of TubeScreamer Clones. I did it for personal use and to give to friends. Just as I started the TS projects, a long time fella presented me the Swollen Pickle MkII, a modified version of the famous Big Muff Pi.

The MkII version didn’t had any schematics or PCB layout on the internet. I only found a veroboard version of it, I really don’t like the veroboard layouts because they are clumsy and big. For the first time I used EagleCAD Software and tried to reverse engineer the layout back to the schematics. While still looking for more information I found a discussion with a non tested schematic and suggestions over that one. No working pcb layout though, so I continued to draw the schematic.

After I finished the schematics I started the board layout, like the schematic, I never did it before. It was a completely new experience for me, a mix of trial and error until everything fits on the board. With the finished board layout I had one more step: the enclosure.

After some measurements I chose a Hammond 1590XX for the enclosure and the aluminium etching method. I used the same tone transfer method as used for the PCB, but I ended up using caustic soda instead of ferric chloride. I had some bleeding on the edges because I used tape to mask and some bleeding where the toner didn’t transferred properly, maybe next time I will seal everything with nail polish and use ferric chloride instead. 

With the corrosion done, I sanded everything, painted the bas-relief with black spray, sanded again and applied varnish. I drilled it with my power drill, using one spade bit to start all holes(just the tip) and then used a step cone drill bit to the right size.

Nothing new with the PCB and Pedal assembly. I chose a super bright green LED as status indicator. It gives nice touch to the pedal, but ruined the video.

To the video I just downloaded some bass DI tracks over the internet and reamped them using the pedal.

Conclusion:

It was a long and complex project for me. If I had the opportunity to redo anything today I would test the aluminium etching on a small scale first. The Eagle CAD part was tiring, but insightful. As for the video the LED ruined it, but I was so tired and wanted to publish something, so I didn’t record another take.

You can download the used Eagle files, ready to transfer pcb layout and partlist on my GitHub repository.

Modifying my cheap guitar – Part I – The Wiring

friend lend me his electric guitar for quite a while when I determined to learn a string instrument. After a lot of months I finally got my act together and bought a cheap an inexpensive electric guitar bundle(with a 15-Watt amplifier, gig bag and strap).

After a period of time it occurred to me to experiment, modify and change some aspects of the guitar wiring. All the applied modifications were found over the internet and, as you can imagine, there is nothing innovative.

Modifications:

  1. Switch between the original tone capacitor and a new one.
  2. Hard clipping using two diodes connected in antiparallel.
  3. Neck ON Switch (David Gilmour wiring).
  4. Treble bleed mod.

Motivation

It was a cheap guitar, however its value reflects its quality. I was a bit unsatisfied with its tone, with a little research I found out some ways to improve the tone.

Schematics and part list

guitar-wiring

C1 - 0.002uF / 2nF / 2000pF
C2 - 0.047uF / 47nF / 47000pF (original film capacitor)
C3 - 0.1uF / 100nF / 100000pF (ceramic capacitor)
D1,D2 - 1N5819
R1 - 100k Ohms resistor
SW - DPDT

Switch between the original tone capacitor and a new one

Simple selector between two capacitors. The second one helps to get a darker sound and not so strident like Stratocasters usually are.

Hard clipping using two diodes connected in antiparallel

Sometimes called as “passive distortion” or even wrongly as “passive overdrive”, it’s a fun modification. Gives a harsh sound, but loses volume since it clips the sound without any boost.

Neck ON Switch (David Gilmour wiring)

This wiring, when enabled, connect the neck pickup with whatever selection in the 5-way switch. David Gilmour may be the most famous musician to use this mod. Now with up to 8 possible combinations, the guitar has so much possibilities. In my opinion, the sound is colorful now.

Treble bleed mod

When you turn the volume down on a guitar you can feel that the sound loses a bit of treble. It happens because the pickup, the volume potentiometer and the capacitance in the cable act as a low pass filter. To compensate this loss we “bleed” more treble into the signal as the volume is turned down.

Further modifications

After all that, I ordered and installed a hotrail pickup in the bridge position. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures, but If I did it again today I would use the Gilmour/neck mod with the bridge pickup instead of neck. I customized the pickguard with an artist, that being the subject of the Part II of this post.

Conclusion

guitar-guts-and-componentsI learned a lot in the process. From something stupid like how a 5-way switch works to something unexpected like fixing to a stripped screw hole.

 

Reviving dead Ni-MH batteries

I’m using the Microsoft Desktop 800 for almost 4 years. In an effort to reduce the E-waste I’m using rechargeable batteries. Unfortunately two of them just died a couple of weeks ago, it occurred to me to find a way to recover them. After some time reading I found a way to bring them back to life and I will tell a little about that.

img_20161023_132738910First try charging your batteries two or three times, if they still don’t charge up, you can check with your multimeter in the dc voltage setting. You should get a value like 0 volts, but I read somewhere that some chargers start charging after some threshold, so you may read something below 0.8 volts.

Battery charger and batteries in parallelAfter you make sure that your batteries are dead, you can try the procedure. Do this the same way you do with a car battery, connect the negative terminal of one working and fully charged battery to the negative of your dead one and do the same with the positive terminals. Keep them connected for 20 to 30 seconds. I used my (unplugged) charger and a coin as the negative are a common ground.

Charged batteries multimeter readingWith a full charge I got a 1.38 volts reading and my two batteries working again.